Giveaway Winners!

First of all - thanks to everyone who entered the double giveaway! It was fun reading about your resolutions, and seeing so many people interested in the two lots.  I was pleasantly surprised by the amount of bloggers who are just learning knitting or wanting to add to their collection.

Now, onto the winners!  They were chosen by random number from the submissions entered for each giveaway.

 First, for the two knitting books, the winner is...

Andrea B from four square walls

The winner of the Vogue sewing patterns is...

Erin of Gravamen of the Stitch

Ladies, I'll be emailing you to get your details.

Thanks again to all that entered and stay tuned as I'm going through my vintage pattern collection and hope to stir up another giveaway soon.

Summer Pattern Giveaway Winners

Hello readers! I apologize for the delay! It's been a crazy week at work and also getting back into our normal routines after house guests for two weeks.  I was totally wow'd by the number of people who entered the summer pattern giveaway and was excited to divvy up the responses.  Surprisingly, an almost even number requested either pattern.  I was waiting to see a clear favorite pop up, but it really was as close to divided in half as it could be (with 31 entries).  So, onto the winners!

Winners were selected using random.org after I sorted the entries into two buckets - Simplicity 1873 and 0325.

The winner of Simplicity 1873 is:
Stacy Sews and Schools
'My favorite summer tradition is cooking out and just hanging around the house with my family. '


The winner of Simplicity 0325 is:
Cuckoo Chanel
'My favorite summer activity is going to Block Island, RI with my boyfriend. During this heat wave, I am also devoted to jumping into the pool as soon as I get home from work!'

Congratulations to the winners!  I really had fun with this and it made me want to host more giveaways.  So, if you were not a winner, stay tuned as I'll try to get another giveaway going shortly.

If the two winners could please send me their mailing address at craftycupcakeblog@gmail.com.  Thank you!

Summer Pattern Giveaway

The promised giveaway is here!  In celebration of surpassing 250 GFC followers, 200 Facebook followers, and just because I appreciate my readers, I am giving away two of the new Simplicity summer patterns.   

One may look familiar – I just made Simplicity 1873.

And the other dress, Simplicity 0325, just looked like a fun summer pattern.  I love the center pleat in the skirt.

To enter: Please leave a comment to this post specifying the pattern that you prefer, and for fun... what's your favorite summer activity/tradition?  If your profile doesn’t have a link to your email, please also leave a way to contact you.  This giveaway will close on July 9th, and is open to all readers (global) that follow via Google Friend Connect, Facebook, or RSS feed.

*Note, this giveaway is not sponsored by Simplicity, but are new, uncut patterns from my own personal collection.

Featured Friend: Madalynne

I'm so excited to share this Featured Friend with you!  The month of May is very special indeed. This month, the lovely Madalynne reached out to me to tell me what she enjoyed my blog.  The sweetest gesture ever but even more coincidental because I had just stumbled across hers in recent weeks and was swooning over her gorgeous photos and wonderful writing style.  Don't you love when you find new blogs that quickly become your favorite?

In putting together this month's feature, Maddie and I swapped quite a few emails finding we have quite a bit in common.  I love to shop for vintage-inspired clothing (or at least drool over the unattainable), and she works at corporate for the store that is number one in my Pinterest/drool-worthy list.  Seriously, my husband knows when I say 'Mecca' that we could only be shopping at one store.  She went to SCAD, one of my little brother's is getting ready to graduate from there and half of my family lives in Savannah (it's where the hubby and I got married). So I definitely have a love for that area.  Ok, well maybe it's not stuff that's totally in common, but we definitely had so much to chat about!

And after reading her interview, I was so excited to learn more about her upcoming projects.  I hope you will be too, because it can only mean more sewing projects for the independent pattern-maker obsessed.  So please, read on, and check out her links at the bottom.

Happy Friday everyone!




What inspires you?


It’s not about what inspires me because everything sparks my mind into imagining and creating. It’s more about when I’m inspired. I find that there are certain times when my mind is creative beyond imagination and there are certain times when my mind is blocked from dreaming up anything. 

I’m most inspired in the morning. Way before the majority of the world wakes up, I can create and create and create forever and once forever is over, I could create some more. Thoughts come from every which way and each grow off each other. I think about my current projects, future projects, what I can do better, what I have done wrong, etc. You name it, I think of it. Although I carry a notebook with me almost every place I go, I make sure to keep it with me in the morning so I can record all my thoughts, even if that means bringing it to the gym.

I find that I am least inspired midday. My antsy and nervous side comes out around 10:00 a.m. when I realize what I have to accomplish for the day and usually subsides around 5:00 p.m. when I wrap up my daily workload and have about 1 thing left on my to-do list. During this window of time, I couldn't create for the life of me. My mind is focused on too many other chores and tasks and I'm not dreaming up my next creation. 

What is your craft space like?

I’d like to say that I have a room dedicated to sewing, where all my supplies are stored and where all my projects are completed, but I don’t. Sewing has taken over my entire apartment and I like it that way. I live in a one bedroom apartment in Philadelphia, so space is tight. My main piece in my "craft space" is a book shelf in my living room with loads upon loads of books stuffed and crammed into the shelves. The World of Fashion, The Complete Guide to Sewing, 9 Heads, The Spec Manual, Modern Art, Hamlet, Breakfast at Tiffany's, Great American Cars, A Little Book of Western Verse, The Creative Habit, Longfellow, as well as so many other books here fill each and every cubicle. Although I love my book shelf for its obvious purpose of storing books, it’s the table that extends out from it that really makes me love this piece. On most days, my computer sits on the table but when I start crafting, sewing, or pattern making, I usually remove it and use the for laying out my patterns, measuring garments, or hand sewing.  It’s longer than most tables which makes it the perfect crafting accessory, actually the perfect crafting necessity.

Also in my craft space is the usual - a Juki DDL 5500 and a mannequin. All of my sewing supplies and tools are stored in my closet, in my kitchen cabinets (who needs food?), and sometimes, in my oven (along with my shoes).

My other craft space is my bedroom. I use it as sort of a photo-op area. It’s where I take all the pretty pictures of my pretty garments.

Let us in on your stash... what is coming, what's in progress, what are you stumped with?

I’m a planner so I have a lot of projects in the works. First up is a matching top and short ensemble. I was inspired by woman's outfitting during the 1950s, particularly how women looked Jackie-O on a daily basis. Dresses, skirts, boleros, and tops matched and were only made with the finest cottons, tweeds, and brocades. So I decided to do a modern take on this with a simple top and a high-waisted short. This project is extra exciting because after I make the pattern, which will be drafted/draped using my mannequin, I plan to grade the pattern to all sizes and sell it online so that others can create the look too (yay!). But there’s more to this project. After I make and grade the pattern for this top, I will manipulate it to create another top that ties in the front or the back into a bow. This top can be sleeved or sleeveless – the sleeve pattern can be sewn onto the first top or the second top. All three pieces - the first and second top and the short - were designed to go with each other. 

What is your favorite craft to work with?

I have many crafts and each provides me a break from the other and each prevents me from getting burned out with one craft. Of course, sewing is my favorite craft but pattern making, blogging, and scrapbooking are my other crafts. Even though I could waste an entire day, usually Sunday, sewing, I couldn’t do it seven days a week. So when I get tired of sewing, I pattern make, and when I get tired of pattern making, I blog, and when I get tired of blogging, I scrapbook. Jumping from one craft refreshes my mind so that when I go back to one particular craft, I’m ready and excited to get back to it.

What is your favorite thing that you've created so far?

My most priced sewing creation is nothing special, it wasn’t even an intricate piece to sew. It’s what I like to call a dress-up everyday piece. It’s a circle skirt with pleated ruffle exposed at the bottom. The skirt was made of a very lightweight wool and the pleated ruffles were a silk twill (the pleated ruffles were attached to a silk lining). It hits right above the knee, not too short or too long, and can be worn with a tank top, cami, blouse, sweater, heels, or flats. I made it four years ago and I’m still head over heels in love with it.

Where can I read more? 

I have an Etsy shop but until I finish the project I just described, nothing is being sold yet. Not to worry though, you can find me on Facebook! If you “like” me, I can pest you with all my status updates, only good ones of course.

Blog: www.madalynne.com

Facebook: www.facebook.com/maddiemadalynne

Attention Bargain Shoppers

Attention bargain shoppers! While I don't normally do posts advertising sales, I frequently get asked how/where I get my patterns on sale.  Well, a perfect example is online retailer (and former local brick and mortar store) Bobbin's Nest.  During the month of May they are having a sale of 30% off everything in their inventory.  This includes fabric, yarn, and yes, independent designer patterns.  Of the sewing variety they have Colette, Amy Butler, Oliver + S and a few others, so if you've been holding off on purchasing some patterns, this could be the deal you're looking for.  I'm not affiliated with them or the sale in any way (aside from shopping there somewhat frequently), but just thought you might like a deal. Enjoy!

In other news, I'm headed to the city tonight for a sewing meet-up with a few lovely bloggers including, Karen from Did You Make That?, Amy from Sew Well, and Beth from Sunny Gal Studio, among others.  A special thanks to Amy for the heads up! I somehow completely missed Karen's original post but was excited to see this was going on at a time when I could attend. I hope to take lots of pictures and will let you know how it goes. I'm super excited!

Ohhh Lulu I Won!

I’m so excited about this post for two reasons.  The first: I won a contest!  That’s right, I actually won something!  This rarely happens in the world of blog contests for me, as I usually find a contest I want to enter, but then forget to actual input a submission, or the odds are never in my favor (if only Katniss and Prim had my luck…).

So in my daily blog digest I saw that Ohhh Lulu was offering a blog ad spot for the first five people to reply.

Guess who was first?

That’s right! Me!

One of the sets from Ohh Lulu

Ok, now I had to design an ad. Oops! But I did, and I’m excited because it will be posted over on Sarah’s blog for the next month (it'll be going up later today).  Check it out!

The second reason for my excitement is that I now get to tell you about Ohhh Lulu.  If you don’t already follow her blog, Sarah is the mastermind behind the gorgeous lingerie focused blog and shop.  She actually just hosted a pin-up sew along.  Pretty gorgeous stuff there! 

It’s not every day that you’ll hear me talking about my skivvies but I’ve been drooling over her etsy shop for a while and recently she had a sample sale that had a few items in my size.  I did treat myself to a wonderful camisole sleep set and it’s now one of my favorite items in my dresser.

My first Ohh Lulu set

She also just recently added two different sewing patterns for retro high-waisted panties and some ruffle bloomers.

Her ruffle bloomers pattern

Her second pattern makes these high-waised panties

Her garments have are beautiful, with a romantic design.  I hope you’ll take a second to check out her blog or etsy shop.  Thanks!

Flea Market Finds

I went to the big Alameda Flea Market this past weekend.  The original intent was to meet up with the Bay Area Sewists from the Sew Weekly, but in the end I shopped the market with a good friend.  I read the event details wrong, and ended up missing the meeting spot, but it sounds like everyone was pretty much doing their own thing anyways.

But good news! I left with a bunch of great patterns, most of which were in my size.  I actually started out the market pretty disappointed with my findings.  I wasn't sure if it's because I wasn't there right at opening, but it took about 4 rows in before I really started finding things.

The main goodies that I found were sewing patterns and buttons.  There were so many of the two! I was hoping to find more fabrics, but I don't think I have the eye. There were a lot of booths with upholstery and burlaps... the latter would have swarms or people. What are they making with that stuff?? Seriously, there were some booths where I couldn't figure out what was the reason for the crowds. But they probably thing the same thing when they see people poring over boxes of old patterns.

This table was so incredible

Anyways, it was a great day.  I was exhausted by the time we got home.  But I considered it a successful trip. I'm looking forward to the next one!

A beautiful day and gorgeous views

So, here are my finds!  I got a couple of pieces of fabric, just under a dozen patterns, some buttons and some lace.  I can actually see myself making a bunch of these, so I can't wait to get cutting!

Fiber Fun, Yarn Giveaway!

And now for week 3 of giveaways for the What's Up, Cupcake? Blog September blogiversary!

Remember, you still have one more day to enter in the vintage pattern giveaway from last week!  Make sure you head on over to the above link for one last chance to get your entry in.  It's for the vintage Simplicity 4920 dress pattern.  It's a size 12, bust 32.

This week's giveaway covers a third area that I love... fiber crafts!  This week you can win a lovely skein of sock yarn by Little Red Bicycle.  Please note, this yarn is from my own collection, but I do highly recommend Little Red Bicycle's yarns.  Check out their Etsy store: Little Red Bicycle.

This giveaway is for one skein, 430 yards/115g of their Snowflake Sock yarn in OOAK.  This hand-dyed yarn is in a gorgeous green with bits of yellow and blue mixed in.

Here's how you can win:

First, be a follower of this blog.  You can do this by clicking on 'Join This Site' from the Google Friend Connect, or on the What's Up, Cupcake? Blog Facebook page.  Both links are on the right side bar.  If you follow via both methods, you get two entries for this contest.  Just be sure to put two separate comments stating each method that you subscribe by.

The contest is open now through next Saturday, September 24th.  Make sure you submit your entry on this post, and include your email address so I can easily contact you if you're the winner.  I will announce the winner, chosen at random (via a random number generator), shortly afterward.

Vintage Pattern Giveaway!

It's that time again! Week 2 of giveaways for the What's Up, Cupcake? Blog September blogiversary!

But wait, you still have one more day to enter in the gorgeous jewelry giveaway from last week!  Make sure you head on over to the above link for one last chance to get your entry in.  You still have a really good chance of winning a beautiful ring from laurenblythedesigns.

Enough housekeeping - on to the giveaway for this week!

This week, you can win a vintage Simplicity 4920 dress pattern.  It's a size 12, bust 32.

Here's how you can win:

First, be a follower of this blog.  You can do this by clicking on 'Join This Site' from the Google Friend Connect, or on the What's Up, Cupcake? Blog Facebook page.  Both links are on the right side bar.  If you follow via both methods, you get two entries for this contest.  Just be sure to put two separate comments stating each method that you subscribe by.

The contest is open now through next Saturday, September 17th.  Make sure you submit your entry on this post, and include your email address so I can easily contact you if you're the winner.  I will announce the winner, chosen at random (via a random number generator), shortly afterward.

Pattern frustrations

Please allow me to take this time to make a minor modification to a Jack Prelutsky poem.  Ahem.

Vogue twelve thirty-three I hate you, you stink

I wish I could wash you away in the sink.

I'd rather take baths with man-eating sharks,

Or wrestle a lion alone in the dark...

I could go on, but it would be endless... Jack did not write enough lines to convey my hated for this pattern.  And to answer your questions, yes, I did recite that from memory - I had to memorize a poem in the third grade (or was it second?) and that was what I chose.  As I've been ripping out the seams from my fabric, I found myself reciting this mantra.  Along with 'I hate you, I hate you, I hate you...'

I consider myself an advanced beginner seamstress at this point. I've made quite a few Intermediate/Advanced patterns with minor difficulties, but this pattern has just been trouble!  It all started with the two front pockets.  Sure, I can make pockets but I couldn't following their instructions.  I was tempted to just make them 'my way' but decided that I would rather continue on without them.  My fabric pattern is busy enough that it would just be adding more detail and covering up the flow of the design.

Then came the collar.  For some reason, I just could not grasp the instructions that the pattern gave me.  I tried every which way of basting it on. Right sides facing, wrong sides facing, one right, one wrong, folding it over ahead of time, laying it flat... you following? Nothing worked!  Finally, i just flipped it inside out, stitched it on and attached the button lining separately.  I may have a few grey hairs from this endeavor, and my hands are covered in pinmarks and seam ripper stabs.  If it weren't for the fabric and the overall cuteness of the dress, I probably would have scrapped the whole thing.  But I swear, this pattern will not triumph over me!  I'm close to completion, but not without some blood, sweat and tears.  I will win in the end.

I will.

Right?

Her eyes hide a secret: This pattern will make you scream!

Alright, enough with my rant. What are your pattern woes?  Did you ever encounter a pattern that tried to get the best of you? Who won?  Please tell me I'm not the only one who's faced this situation.

Featured Friend Friday! Tasia from Sewaholic

Whew, it's been a crazy week!  We had our major performances yesterday and of course, my camera battery died.  I'll try to scrounge up some pictures of highlights but until then, here's a new Featured Friend Friday!  This time, I met with Tasia of Sewaholic.  She's an awesome seamstress and creator of one of my favorite blouses, the Pendrall blouse that I made in a polka dot print.  She just released a new pattern for a skirt that I can't wait to try out!

I hope you enjoy the interview and be sure to check out her site and her great patterns!

Tasia in her fantastic Pendrall blouse!

What inspires you?

Everything! Sewing is constantly on my mind. I'm always thinking of new ideas, of things I want to make, details to test and add to garments. Fabric is a major source of inspiration for me. I love touching new fabrics, and imagining what they could become. Especially when the seasons change, and the tweeds and wools are replaced by bright prints and soft summer voiles! I'm also inspired by the technical side of sewing and love buying vintage patterns just to see how they go together! Currently I'm working on a vintage vogue dress pattern from the early fifties. It has the most fascinating tab-and-button construction! I'm inspired by fashion magazines, by the fabulous projects made by other sewing bloggers, by trends and themes. The best part about sewing is knowing you can take any trend and make it your own. Want a maxi-skirt for summer? If you sew, you can make one in the colour you like best, with the fabrics you like to wear, and you can make it to fit you perfectly! That's a wonderful sense of freedom. You're not limited to what's in store, at the price you can afford, in the sizes the store carries.

What is your craft space like?

Half of our spare room is mine, for sewing and blogging! I've maximized my space by hanging thread racks on the wall, using bookshelves and boxes for storage, and keeping fabric stored away in the closet. Having a bulletin board for swatches, sketches and a calendar helps keep me super organized - and therefore more productive! I love the natural light, and I love the thread racks. I long for more space, or a space I can call my own. Don't we all wish for more sewing space?

Her totally organized craft space

Swoon! So practical and so colorful!

I'm so envious of her organization

Let us in on your stash... what’s coming, what’s in progress, what are you stumped with?

Ooh.. What's in progress is my Vogue dress, in lovely turquoise wool and the most expensive button I've ever purchased! What's coming? A Sew-Along for the Crescent skirt, my most recent pattern design! I'm looking forward to leading another Sew-Along after the first one was so much fun. I'll sew a skirt along with the group, for demonstrations and of course, because I can use another skirt in my wardrobe! After that, I'm hoping to whip up one of the Vogue re-issue patterns I got recently. There's a dress pattern from the forties with a fantastic draped, gathered, and sash-tied bodice that I can't wait to make up! Colette Patterns' Crepe dress is still on my mind for spring, I love the idea of no closures and a bright contrast sash! And of course, I'm working on the next pattern for Sewaholic Patterns. There's always lots of sewing in my world! 

What am I stumped with? Pants. Everything to do with pants - wearing them, sewing them, designing them. It's a challenge I'd love to tackle, as so many people who sew are terrified of sewing pants! I know that a lot of that fear comes from fitting issues, especially us who have a curvier bottom half. So I'd love to create a pants pattern for pear-shaped women, that would make it easier for us to get a great-fitting pant. Once you have the pattern and the fitting done, sewing pants is a breeze! So that's where I get stumped - solving pants for me and for pear-shapes everywhere.

What is your favorite craft to work with?

Sewing! By far. I have great intentions of learning to knit, but there's just so much sewing I want to do first! I don't scrapbook, or embroider, or bake. I sew, and sew a lot! There's always something new to learn, a new technique to explore, a tricky fabric to master. With sewing I feel like there's no limit. Tailoring, sewing lingerie, fitting different bodies - every challenge is an opportunity to master a new skill!

What is your favorite thing that you’ve created so far?

Good question! Can I have more than one favourite? My favourite project, start to finish, was the Picnic Dress. It's pink, it's flowered, it's so delightfully girly and pretty. The full skirt is so fun and the bodice fits like a glove. I'm really proud of the hand-picked zipper and the waist stay, two authentic vintage details! Although I haven't worn it yet, I'm looking forward to warmer weather so I can take Mr Sewaholic on a picnic and dress for the occasion. 

 

 

My second favourite thing I've created is the Pendrell Blouse. It was a wonderful feeling of accomplishment, taking a design from concept all the way to printing and selling a pattern! There's no way to describe the feeling when I see someone else make it and love it. And despite the fact that I've made this blouse nearly a dozen times, I still want to make more! It still happens that I'm at the fabric store, see a gorgeous cranberry stretch silk georgette (!) and think, that would make a great Pendrell! 

Where can I read more?

Blog: http://sewaholic.net

Twitter: @SewaholicDotNet

Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/sewaholic

Ravelry (although I haven't actually knitted anything, just added a few projects to my favourites!) TasiaKnits

Spring Palette Challenge

Now that I've started sewing again, I decided to set some goals for upcoming projects, starting with the Colette Patterns Spring Palette Challenge.  I thought it would be a good way to focus my sewing energy and upcoming projects by putting together the next round of garments that I want to make, as well as picking out the palette to work with.

Originally I had planned to stay with grey as the main color and then add accents such as green or pink.  Once I started pulling together the patterns that I wanted to make, I found that certain fabrics and patterns seemed to better suit them.  So, below I unveil my Spring challenge!  I am aiming for the 5 items, but depending on the difficulty level and time involved, I want to at least make 4.

I liked the idea of just doing two colors but possibly incorporate the grey through them.  That's where the floral prints come in.  Aside from that, stripes and polka dots are always a favorite and instantly made me think of Spring.

What do you think? What are your Spring craft or sewing plans?

Mad Men Peggy Dress

The Peggy dress is complete!  This is my favorite creation so far though it probably involved the most time, blood, sweat and tears. Well, not quite, but it did have a few hiccups along the way.

The top looks baggy but I think it's just the lighting. It fits perfect!

My inspiration: the original dress.

The dress started as a vintage pattern, Simplicity 5086, but as I had upsized it on my own, I wasn't really happy with the fit.  I decided to merge the concept with another pattern I had: Vogue 8667.

Vogue 8667

Simplicity 5086

Neither pattern had contrasting pleat colors, so I had to do some research on my own.  Luckily, the wonderful world of sewing blogs came to the rescue!  I used several in putting together various aspects of this dress.

Pleats

Sew, Mama, Sew's blog post on how to make a pleat was amazing! This walked me through the process step by step.  The patterns I had could explain the pleat, but they didn't provide details to add a different fabric to it.  Sew, Mama, Sew broke it down for me.  These are the steps I took:

Marked out and pressed my pleat. Took a strip of the fabric to go inside and cut to fit.  (The red strip is shown before cutting to size)

Insert the fabric into the pleat, careful to keep the pleats' original shape.

Pinned the pleat in place and stitched the back sides in place.

The red fabric is now secure in the pleat!

Accessories
After completing the dress, my hubby and a few friends agreed that it needed something, but they weren't crazy about the buttons above the pleats in the original dress.  I personally loved the buttons but agreed that I don't have the svelt curves that Peggy has at her waist.

I remembered seeing Tilly's tutorial on a bow belt and played around with a few variations.  In the end, we agreed it needed the bow belt as is.  Her tutorial was also great and very easy to follow along with.  Brilliant!

Let me know what you think! I think I'm going to have to save the first wearing of this dress for something special like my actual birthday or maybe turkey day.  I've already started on another vintage pattern that is already my size.  I think it will be much easier to work with and will hopefully give me confidence to one day revisit this Simplicity pattern to do the upsizing again.

Happy Birthday to me!

With my birthday fast approaching, I decided to treat myself to some vintage patterns from a couple of my favorite Etsy shops.

I decided to stick to patterns that didn't require too much tinkering (upsizing, etc) as I encountered some bumps in the progress of my Peggy dress.  I'm still new to the world of sewing garments, especially vintage ones so I wanted to stick with something as close to my size as possible.

I'm having so much fun making all of these girly dresses though! I picked up a few more...

And check out the envelope that this came in? I'm just impressed with the amount/variety of stamps that fit onto the envelope.

Dancing queen

This November is a busy month for me.  It's my birthday month (woohoo!), my Highland dance school's annual performance, and a regional Irish dance competition.  Due to the dance performance, I've had to work on some costumes for our show. This year we're doing an Alice in Wonderland theme but of course, tweaking it to suit Highland dancing. How do we do that? Well the evil red queen is instead the Irish queen.  Guess who got that role?

Front of the jacket

I'll be wearing my Irish solo dress for most of the show, but we are doing an Irish vs. Scottish jig battle towards the end of the show, and I'll be wearing my Scottish jig dress.  In order to show that I'm the Irish queen, I whipped up an orange 'queenly' jacket.  I used Simplicity pattern 3685.  It was so easy to follow and a fast project to put together.

Back of the jacket

I'm pretty impressed with how it turned out.  I was able to test actually dancing in it at our recent dress rehearsal, and it fit perfect.  I'll post more pictures after the performance in a couple of weeks.  Now to keep practicing my steps!